Newsletters > Indoor Range Ventilation Project
Indoor Range Ventilation Project

Jul 25, 2017

Below is a communication from John Brod regarding upcoming work projects to be preformed by the club members in preparation for the installation of the new ventilation system that is expected to be complete by late fall. If you can help, please contact John at the phone number or email address below. Other contacts for individual projects will be shown next to the description of the work. Thank you.

"I met with Chris Martin from Airside on Friday and we marked out the location and size of the pad needed for the air handler. I marked the location directly on the ground using orange marking paint. Basically, the pad should be about 66” wide by 96” long. The equipment is about 60” wide and he wants to keep the edge of the equipment out from under the drip edge to avoid ice damage, so the edge of the pad should start about 24” away from the wall. He suggested that we might want to just pour the concrete right up to the wall to avoid having grass growing between the pad and the building – our choice. If we keep the pad at 66” wide, we will have to do something to maintain or kill the grass between the unit and the building. If we build the pad right up to the building, it will be 24” wider (90” wide), and we end up covering our water line. Personally, I think covering the water line and making the pad wider makes sense. If we ever have a problem with the waterline (which is unlikely), it would be easier to simply dig a new line than try to dig up the old one and fix it. Dave Klish has offered to use his machine to prepare the pad surface for pouring. We need the club to provide help to build the forms and pour the pad. contact: Earl Wagner at: earlwagner@tds.net

Chris expects the roof curbs to be delivered within a week or so. When they come in, he will send them out to the club with one of his technicians to show us exactly where they will go on the roof. Once we have them and we know where they will be installed, we can mobilize a crew to get that done.

He has not finalized a wiring diagram – I expect that to be done this week. That will give us pretty much everything we need to know what what equipment and materials we need to purchase, and what wiring we need to do.

I think we can build the diffuser wall framing anytime now. I confirmed with Chris our plan and he gave me the go ahead to build the wall as planned. His duct crews will be able to tie the duct in to the top of our wall. This is what I believe we all agreed we would do for the wall:

Fix rotted top plate section – cut out old rotted wood and insert new 3x8 top plate as needed.
Glue foam insulation board to existing block wall. I’m thinking 1” thick foil covered foam with taped seams – should give us about R5. Does anyone want to sacrifice another 1” for additional insulation value?
Build 2x8 frame to hang perforated sheet metal. 24” on center with no top plate. Open top to allow duct work to be attached to each bay. Will need to attach 2x8 studs to concrete wall using brackets or joist hangers with TapCons through 1” foam. We should double the studs at each seam (every 4 feet) so the sheet metal has a full stud to attach to. I am working with Erdle Manufacturing out of Rochester to supply the perforated sheet metal, and I am working with Tim Myers to confirm that final dimensions of the wall. Stay tuned for final input on that.

Thanks for any help you can provide for this.

John

John Brod
38 Root St.
New Hartford, NY 13413
Cell: (315) 480-9410
e-Mail: jbrod3495@live.com

CARPE DIEM!

 


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